Repotted this Japanese Red Pine yesterday for display at the Cape Bonsai Kai club meet. I think it came out very nice http://t.co/xWW0uDbnFT
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John uploaded a new avataryesterday
tryed my hand at styling a Dwarf Juniper "nana" as its the start of Spring..However I think I might have got too ambitious and although its watered every morning and early eve its very brittle and not as green ...has it gone in shock or whats up...any advice...yesterdayGerald Randall John, although I live in Cape Town, I spend a lot of time in Gauteng. I spent most of the week in JHB. Your days and nights are already much warmer than our weather. If you are watering twice a day, I would cut down to once. In the weather you are having, once every second day may be too little. If the health of your juniper is in doubt, and especially if branches start dying, the first thing to look at is your watering routine and put your finger into the soil to check on how wet the growing medium is/stays. Also, make sure the tree is getting enough sun. If weak, not sun all day, but at least 4 hours of direct sun per day.
I had a friend who recently lost a major branch on a juniper he had purchased as a finished bonsai from a local bonsai nursery. Some of the other branches were also starting to look unhealthy. He was concerned that the tree was not getting enough water and was watering twice a day. I advised him to water less. He was surprised, but followed the advice. The one branch could not be saved, but the rest of the tree recovered and the tree will be restyled.yesterday
how long can raffia stay on a branch of a pine before it starts to hinder the sap flow?less than a minute agoTerry Erasmus Hannes, the answer to this will depend on how tight you made the raffia, what part of the tree the raffia is on and how much fertilizer you are giving the tree. I would treat the raffia a bit like wire. If it looks like it is biting in then remove it. If not then leave it. However remember that raffia, like wire, is simply used to create bends. Raffia prevents the cracking of the wood when bending. So once the bend is made and the cracks have had a chance to heal up then the raffia serves no further purpose other than to harbour pests like mealy bug.yesterday
I want to do some grafting on a White Pine. I have grown some of the sub branches fairly long and want to graft them onto other branches and possibly the trunk. When is the best time to do this? Can I use both hard and soft wood for the graft? Some of the branches I want to use as the donor are not very mature yet. I want to assure the best results as this is a fairly old White Pine and I may not have a second chance with these grafts.2 weeks ago
This is not bonsai related but seeing as I am this websites admin I will allow myself a little freedom. Meet Theo David Erasmus, the new addition to the Erasmus family.Brett Simon comment on the photo This is the root growth of an olive collected 1 year. Growing medium is LECA and peat. As soon as it started showing growth I began using BonsaiBoost. I've only seen rapid root development like this on trident maple. What is your opinion?Hi Kobus, this is one of the trees but they all look like this.This is the root growth of an olive collected 1 year. Growing medium is LECA and peat. As soon as it started showing growth I began using BonsaiBoost. I've only seen rapid root development like this on trident maple. What is your opinion?2 weeks agoDoes anyone know where I can get rooting hormone gel in the Western Cape. I know it is used extensively for hydroponics, but I can't seem to locate a hydroponics equipment supplier in the Western Cape. I have some juniper cuttings I want to test it on. Apparently great for cuttings.2 weeks agoGerald Randall Terry, I have liquid and powder hormones, but for what I want to do I need the gel. I'm picking it up tomorrow with a couple of other products. I was looking for one of two specific products, but they are made in Australia or USA. I'm actually looking for Dyna Gro, but it is a USA product. There is a supplier in JHB. I may pick some up when next I'm in JHB. Which is next week.
I am using a local substitute in the meantime. I want to try something new. Once I know what the results are, I will let you know.2 weeks ago2 weeks agoThese pics are of a maple, but the technique works for all trees. The reality is that some trees are easy to layer, but getting a consistent and dense root ball is not always as easy. This technique assists with that. Also, JBP layers in 5 months. i.e. one growing season.I am posting these pictures of a very successful layering technique which was created by Ray Mackaway from Australia. I said to Ray the logic of the technique is very simple and having read his books, I ask myself why I have not thought of it myself, as I do many layers every year. But the results are just tremendous. If you want to know how to get this root flare and root mass after 6 weeks, I propose you order his ebooks. Ray can be contacted on [email protected]Normally around this time I start getting ready for potting my ficus. By mid to late September I am potting. I know that some only pot their Ficus later in the year. I have two root over rock which I will only lift in November. Is end of September fine for repotting ficus? Never had any issues, but just wondered if the recovery and growth is better if left for Oct or Nov.2 weeks agoTerry Erasmus The amount of trees which can be kept by any grower is in my opinion proportional to the amount of time they have available to work on them and also at what stage of development they are at. So if one is primarily growing stock it's fine to have hundreds of trees and they are very forgiving regards timing. However when you have refined trees it's no longer possible as not attending to them at the correct time (and by time I refer to what the tree is doing and the technique which should be applied then) might set back the development of the tree. For example if you don't decandle a pine at the right time the results are not going to be pleasing and could weaken the tree. With a maple, if you don't prune the new growth in spring at the right time it will just continue to extend and will become too think ruining the delicate network of twigs you may have built up.
My solution to this is that as my trees become more and more development I reduce their quantity.2 weeks agoOne of my wisteria is almost in full bloomIt's not and never will be a bonsai, but you can still appreciate azalea for their flowers.View location 3 weeks agoTerry Erasmus Hannes you are correct in saying there are many pines that can be used for bonsai. JBP, JWP and JRP are all indigenous to Japan and are plentiful so this explains why so much is known about them as far as techniques. In the USA they do use a lot of the pines you have mentioned in your last comment. If you are in need of advice then you should join one of the forums in the USA as I'm sure they will be able to give you some advice.
However as Gerald said, some species are just not conducive to bonsai cultivation for some or other reason. This does not mean you should not try them, experiment with them etc however I have found a natural progression in myself as a bonsai grower in that I now ask myself if the effort is worth the reward. This helps me to eliminate not only species which are difficult or slow etc, but also specific trees with less desirable qualities which I believe would take long to remedy.
For some people bonsai is about having a mini nursery though with hundreds of the same specie, others want one specimen of species of Japanese maple. If your ambition is to grow every type of pine you can lay your hands on then enjoy yourself. I think you will naturally become selective afterwards.2 weeks agoView location 3 weeks agoKobus comment on the photo Just for you Kobus. Some male catkins on a Japanese Black Pine.4 weeks agoJust for you Kobus. Some male catkins on a Japanese Black Pine.4 weeks agoKobus Terry, It appears as my pine has small male catkins and needle candles. As this shot is close up I can't see if this tree has needle candles. I probably need to go and read a bit more about the growing cycle op pines. Thanks for the photo Terry, I appreciate it.4 weeks ago