In this blog post I will show you how I construct simple wooden boxes which I used to grow collected or yamadori in, as well as to initially grow field grown tree in. For an example I will work on a field grown Cork Bark Chinese Elm; showing you the steps I take on this sort of material.
In this second part of a 2 part series on field growing Celtis sinensis or Hackberry, we will revisit the same trees, 2 years later from when the first blog was written and I will describe and show the steps taken to arrive at the next stage of two of the trees' development.
On a recent trip to Japan I visited two specialist nurseries; one that is well known and has won many awards in Japan for their shohin, and the other is a bonsai professional that specialises in Satsuki Azalea.
Bonsai progressions are always fun to look at. It shows in a few short paragraphs of text and some images, the work and changes a bonsai tree has undergone over a number of years. What makes it fun though is that our art is as much about trees as it is about patience, so seeing all these changes condensed is like pressing fast forward on the remote.
One of the most attractive qualities of deciduous bonsai when sensitively styled is the light and delicate appearance within the visual mass of the canopy. When hidden by a full canopy of leaves this beauty is lost to the viewer, but it's in winter that these species' structure which required many years of pinching, defoliating and wiring is finally revealed.
Using a wooden board you can easily improve the roots, the trunk flare and taper of your bonsai trees. A very simple technique which anyone can do, I will show you how using a Chinese maple bonsai which has been layered.